![]() Select the right COM-port and hit 'upload' - that's really should be it. Don't be alarmed at least with my version of the Pro Mini, the red LED simply signifies the unit is powered on, and the blinking red stems from the fact that the unit was pre-programmed with the standard 'blink' sketch - in which the on-board LED blinks once every second.įire up the Arduino IDE, and in the 'tools->boards' menu, select the 'Arduino Pro or Pro mini' variant. There is a phsycally serial port on the Pro Mini board but this number can be increased with the SoftwareSerial library as software. Now, as you connect the units together via the jumper cables, you may be surprised to note how the Arduino starts blinking red, and furthermore, there's a strong red LED that's turned on. ![]() Select your board type and port Youll need to select the entry in the Tools > Board menu that corresponds to your Micro board. ![]() This way we wont need any conversion board, just those plain cheap wiring cables. Open the LED blink example sketch: File > Examples >01.Basics > Blink. We will simply plug prototyping wires to its header block. Note that the Arduino Pro Mini shouldn't be connected to its own power source - the FT 232 will deliver the power for now. Step 1: Plug the Wiring Cables usbASP usually come with IDC-10 connector cable. However if you are using Serial to communicate on the Pro Mini you will need to disconnect the ESP8266 in order to program the Pro Mini as it will interfere with serial communication to the PC. That's really the only thing that's possible to mess up! The 5v/3.3v setting is made by setting this jumper to its correct position (which should be marked on the board): Remember to set the FT232 to 5v if you're programming the 5v version of the Pro Mini, and 3.3v if you have the 3.3v Pro mini.
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